(Plus, fun fact: She accepted an Oscar for "Cabaret" in a yellow Halston gown that same year.) "I had to leave my my textbook brain about doing it accurately and authentically and perfectly, and take a little creative freedom a beautiful moment on screen that feels like a fabulous show," says San Juan.
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"I did nod to some of the silhouettes, but my most important thing was just to show a contrast to the American clothes to show a much more traditional sensibility versus a more youthful and free sensibility," she says.įor Liza's finale number, San Juan created a black sequined halter jumpsuit, top hat and bow tie (below), an homage to Minnelli's Academy Award-winning performance in "Cabaret." In real life, Minnelli wore an ombré-beaded high-low gown for the Paris performance. However, San Juan took "a lot of creative liberty" with her interpretation of the Parisian collections, which are briefly seen, with members of international society snoozing in the audience. At first, Halston refused to participate, but the event ended up bringing international reverence for American Fashion, as well as marking Halston's career turning point.Įlsa, backed by the Halstonettes, during the Battle of Versailles. The spectacular fundraiser pitted the French vanguard - Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro and Marc Bohan's Christian Dior - against American revolutionaries: Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Stephen Burrows and Halston.
She really had to artfully mesh her fashion history with creative storytelling for the portrayal of the renowned 1973 Battle of Versailles, planned by fashion power publicist Eleanor Lambert (a delightfully foul-mouthed Kelly Bishop). "He was so lovely in being able to recreate it within his workroom," says San Juan. The connection between the designers goes back even further: Halston also worked with Khan's father, who created pieces for royalty in India, for his evening-wear collections. Then, for the jumpsuit's elaborate beadwork, San Juan turned to New York-based designer Naeem Khan, who began his career as a Halston apprentice in 1978, when he was just 20 years old. "And something that we could do on the bias, which is a cornerstone to his creative voice." As McGregor's Halston prepares for what would be his breakout runway show, assistant Joel (Rory Culkin) brings in a blue fabric tie dyed with an abstract floral pattern - "it's my design, as Halston," says San Juan of the graphics - conveniently set in the center where a hole for the head could be cut. "I really wanted to celebrate the caftan because it's what's synonymous with Halston," she says, noting that she chose vibrant hues to stand out from the show's replica of Halston's earlier Moroccan souk-inspired Madison Avenue showroom, which was designed by friend Angelo Donghia in 1967. San Juan also pitched a scripted moment, seen in the first episode, to help demonstrate Halston's famed design technique, which involved diagonally slicing a piece of fabric, straight from the bolt, to drape and design a languid silhouette directly onto one of his models. Halston cuts, drapes and pins a caftan on Elsa. For this project, she "absorbed everything" through expansive research, which included personally talking to the real Halston's inner circle - from head tailor Gino Balsamo and assistant Sassy Johnson to Halstonette Chris Royer - for first-hand accounts and even garment loans, to be able to break down the science behind the designer's distinctive methodology. "Initially, it felt like a heavy baton to be handed," says Jeriana San Juan, the costume designer behind the Netflix miniseries "Halston," based on the book "Simply Halston" by Steven Gaines, starring Ewan McGregor and executive produced (and co-written) by Ryan Murphy. She last visited the '70s in " The Get Down" (and the pre-war era in "The Plot Against America"). designer Elsa Peretti and a diverse group of models dubbed the Halstonettes. Not only did Roy Halston Frowick change the face of American fashion and redefine how women dress, he also established an iconic aesthetic for himself and his game-changing muses, which included Liza Minelli, future Tiffany & Co.
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